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“It is amazing to consider how many social anxieties were embodied in this one garment.” The ensemble of trousers gathered at the ankle under a loose dress was often referred to as a “bloomer” costume, named for the aforementioned activist, who popularized the look with her enthusiastic articles on its benefits in her newspaper, The Lily

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She had been paging through her godmother and former Fashion Institute of Technology faculty Clara Branch’s scrapbooks, which were filled with the names and photos of hundreds of Black designers and creatives

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